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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Italjet Dragster 180 project [Update 5/8-08]
Hello everyone Martin here from Sweden, 21 years old.
The bike as it was when i bought it, only thing done was it had got a malossi barrel fitted. ![]() i got myself a pm 59 exhaust bout a year ago ![]() Also got an egt to make it easier to setup the card and to see if its too lean for ex. running on highway (same throttle for a long time). ![]() ![]() Hmm whats this i have on my table ![]() ![]() ![]() Trying out some different reeds and inlets, i am currently running a dellorto phbl 25 carb. ![]() That was summer 2007, time for some porting and projekt in the winter! The bike now ![]() Splitting the engine. ![]() Nice and clean ![]() I have been calculating some on what crank to get and 55mm will make the ports to extreme for the pm pipe, the pipe is said to give maximum power at around 8500-8800 rpm which means that 185 exhuast and 128 transfer ports will be perfect. With a 54mm crank i will need to go 1mm up on the exhaustport and do nothing to the transferports except lowering them to get more fuel/air into the barrel. Exhaust is also lowerd to make the area bigger. The new mazza crank ![]() Tool made in a workshop specially for pulling crank into place, makes it easy to achive som bearing play when engine is put together. ![]() Crank in engine ![]() Time to measure port times, Fitted 1mm spacer under barrel with 0,5mm basegasket giving exactly 0,8mm squish. ![]() Matching barrel to engine halves. ![]() Not the final look forgot to take pictures on that actually but this is almost as the finished result. ![]() ![]() Also made a mount for an accelerationmeter while engine was apart. ![]() ![]() Have put it all together now, started on second kick have just had it idleing some will update a little later with some more pictures and maybe a little testride. Will also have it repainted in dark greymetallic ![]() Finally i get motivated to update this thread As i said new colour will be and has now been applied and the results turned out to be awesome! ![]() ![]() A bigger carb and reeds from a kawasaki kx85 has been added and my only comment is scrap your dellortos this carb is so much better, now it wheelies all the time just on throttle pull!![]() Also moved the gauges to a more viewable place ![]() Last edited by Martin t; 05-08-2008 at 10:04. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Bob, maar nu #13
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Het Grote plaats hier je scooter topic #4
almost at the bottom of the page you'll see my dragster witch is sold a couple of weeks ago. At first I was curious about the looks, but never felt sorry about it. I think it should be done with soft colors. Not that fluor yellow that you've got now, but for example dark grey, soft white, black, dark red, dark blue, you name them ![]() But ofcourse, it's your machine and your choice ![]() __________________ |
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#8 (permalink) |
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B.A.T tuning
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A crank puller is a simple tool, just buy a simple M20 bolt. Drill a bore at the end of the bolt (I suggest you use a lathe), and make a thread in it (the same thread as the crank has). Use a suitable size tube as the outer part of the tool. Each end of the tube supports the enginecase the other end support the M20 nut (+washers). So you can pull the crank with the M20 nut! All this thing costs a few euros.
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#12 (permalink) | |
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B.A.T tuning
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Quote:
No it's not necessary! The crank doesn't rotate when you pulling in with the tool. First step you screw the M20 bolt onto the crank by rotating it like a simple nut. After that the bolt is connected to the crank. When you turn right the nut on the M20 screw you need to dolly the bolt's head with another wrench, so the crank and the bolt is not turning! Maybe Martin's tool works different way, but my personakl opinion is that one is needlessly complicate. It's also not very good if you rotate it with a lefthanded tool because the crank's thread have an "active role" (radial forces on the thread). I am NOT saying Martin's tool is bad, it's also great but the other tool protect the crank's thread more! If you still not understand I will take some photoes. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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nice drag keep up the good work.
Have you drilled out the brake mount to fit your accelerationmeter if so i would keep a verry close eye on this as they are know for snaping there is a company here in england that make renforcment brackets to stop this there called psn scooters you could just coppy the bracket too if you want i will get you some pictures of one. oh and it keep a eye on the pm59 too as they are verry prone to snaping. |
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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#19 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
The most brakemounts that have snapped is because people have had a lock in the rear wheel and driven away with it in the wheel, if your wheel does a full circle and the lock bangs into the caliper it will be alot of stress for the mounting bracket. |
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#28 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Haven't raced any properly tuned 70cc yet, done 145 km h on the clock with original 180 gearing but im not into the top speed thing, wheelies and blistering acceleration is the way to go ![]() |
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